Sailing Community - We Are Not Alone

Big horizons put you in your proper place.  A squall approaching in the Abacos, Bahamas.

We started this trip down the coast and across to the Bahamas by ourselves, just the two of us. In the Bahamas we were seldom alone. And that has been just fine with us.

In the early days of preparing to embrace a new life of extended travel on a boat, a research colleague of many years, Michelle Norris, considered the isolation of a boat and questioned Bud about how he might miss interacting with people.  Bud exclaimed that, in fact we could expect to be interacting more, not less, on the boat, and we might find this life to be rich and full with diverse and interesting people.

We have discovered that the community of people who travel by boat is beyond what we had imagined.  It would be too simplistic to explain that these outstanding friendships arise because we just have so much in common – similar challenges, adventures, and the life of travel.

Conversations with Nancy on her cottage deck in Man O' War Cay.
She revealed that she had been a stunt pilot.

Certainly, it is that, and more.  Consider when many long distance sailors meet, the first question is seldom the most commonly asked question in the world outside of sailing – “What do you do?”  It has been said that this select group is not much different from the Foreign Legion in which questions of a former life is only of minor interest.  More likely the first questions include:  Where did you come from?  Where are you going?  How did you fix that?

Always willing to help, South Africans John, Alan, and Tony assisted Bud in the purchase
and launching of our "new" dinghy in Man O' War Cay.

It is impossible to categorize these individuals as a single ‘type’ of person.  We have met American, Canadian, English, Australian, French, South African, and German sailors. They have much in common but that has little to do with their former professions, nationalities, political beliefs, prosperity or lack of it.

Often in just a few hours, from conversations, sharing meals, hikes, sundowners on the beach, staring up at the stars, these voyagers bond at a level others may envy.  These bonds are remarkably strong. Admittedly, it is still a mystery to us how this happens and how it happens repeatedly.

On a walk to the beach on Man O' War Cay.
John collected and prepared a refreshing coconut water for Shirley and Bud.

Dinghies tied together for a snorkel on the reef at Sandy Cay.
Most excursions were with the entire 'gang'.

John keeps the tradition of blowing the conch at sunset.

The downside of friendships between world travelers is that the parting and heading in different directions is inevitable and sometimes painful.  A breakup of a ‘tribe’ is difficult. This explains why these sailors tend not to dwell on lengthy goodbyes.  Mostly, they say, “Until we meet again”.  These travelers don’t know where or when, or if it will actually happen, but most like to believe it is possible to meet again.

Bud and Tracy with John, John, Shirley, Marita, and Holli assembled before goodbyes.

We thank the sailing “community” for enriching our lives and showing us what Hal Roth, the circumnavigator, described as “the authentic life”. If you think your horizons might be limited or you are feeling isolated, go find a blue water cruising sailor. You may find some good humor, good conversation, and possibly some vicarious adventure. However, you may want to avoid that guy who sits on a boat and never leaves the dock!

Layla at anchor off Crab Cay, Abacos, Bahamas.

Catching up with a small post

Our overnight passages began with open seas, solitude and sunsets like this.

Much has happened since our last posting. In the Bahamas for about 2 months we found that we had such a busy social life that we just had little time (and access to internet) to post. We had many adventures and will attempt to catch up on many of them over the next several days in separate postings.

Little sailors in little boats in the anchorage in Charleston harbor.

As a quick review we are now in Charleston, South Carolina after making a two night passage from St. Augustine, about 200 miles. It was a great trip with nice weather and winds sufficient for sailing and catching a couple of fish while underway. We left Great Sale Cay in the Bahamas about two weeks ago accompanied by our friends Tony and Robyn on their catamaran, Alleycat Too. The passage to St. Augustine included a two night run under moonlit skies. 

A mahi mahi caught while underway on the passage from St. Augustine to Charleston.

There is no way we can begin to summarize quickly our stay in the Abacos...just too much to tell. Check out our travels on the InReach satellite tracking above until we post more.

Arrival in the Bahamas and Catching Up with Black Cat

Gendron family on Layla one afternoon at Mangrove Cay.

Cruising is more than simply sailing (or motoring) around from place to place.  One of the great joys is meeting the other people of like minds that go to the sea.  The cruising community is an incredibly diverse group that challenges one description for them all.  It seems fitting that we would begin our journey by meeting up with another cruising family that was ending theirs.  We met the French Canadian crew of Black Cat last November at the Morehead City Docks, just as they were heading from North Carolina to the British Virgin Islands.  Bernard and Karine had a year of leave from their jobs, and were taking their two children, Victor (10) and Mia (8), on a Caribbean circumnavigation to include the French Islands especially.  We attempted to keep in touch as best travelers can these days by email, and by position reports and messages from their satellite transmitter (InReach) as well as their blog.  We were pleased to hear they were returning from their Caribbean voyage through the Exumas in the Bahamas.  Would it be possible that we could actually meet?  We were preparing to cross the Gulf Stream... 

It was remarkable that after all that time and the distance, there was Black Cat coming into the anchorage in the Bahamas on Sunday, the day after we had arrived.  With hugs and kisses, we caught up on their stories and discussed where we might travel together, at least for a couple of days.  The following day was Monday and Bernard and Richard took the dinghy into the marina to meet with the Customs official.  We learned at the fuel dock that the official was at the airport but would return “sometime today”.   And then we learned that it was also a holiday.  It was “Witt Monday”.  Nobody was really sure what “Witt Monday” is all about, but in the Bahamas (or anywhere) when you are told you have a holiday, you take it.  All other businesses were closed.  This was just one of the many observations you could make that reminded you - “you are in a different place”.  And you know, that was just OK.  A little while later the Customs official arrived and motioned Richard to the air conditioned office.  The official was quite business-like and efficient with assisting in completing the variety of forms. A nod completed the process and then there was the exchange of an envelope of $300 cash for the privilege of staying in the Bahamas.  It was thrilling!

Raising the Bahamian courtesy flag after taking down the yellow quarantine flag.  We are officially cleared in.

After we cleared in, and Black Cat cleared out from Customs and Immigration, we spent a day at the Old Bahama Bay Resort and Marina in West End indulging in the pool, beach, and grill.  

Two free fish (“yellow eyes”) given by a sportfisher for part of our dinner.

The 'Grill Girl', Mia, assisting with dinner.

Preparing one 'yellow eye' for ceviche and the other for grilling.

We then spent the next week cruising across the Little Bahama Banks from West End to Great Sale Cay.  We motor sailed about halfway across the Banks where we anchored at the uninhabited island of Mangrove Cay to wait out a pesky series of squalls with strong winds, and impressive lightning and rain.  We traveled another 20 miles to the uninhabited island of Great Sale Cay and spent the next several days exploring the beaches and snorkeling.  The weather continued to challenge us with wind and rain.  Finally, a weather window finally came for Black Cat to cross the Gulf Stream and return to the US and begin the final leg to a US boatyard where Black Cat would be put up for sale.  We all felt that this was happening far too fast.  We were not prepared to say goodbye but before we knew it, we were helping store the dinghy on deck and then watched as they weighed anchor and left the anchorage.  We waved goodbye as Black Cat headed back across the Banks and, on this leg, to Charleston, SC.  We are sure we will meet up again, maybe next time in Montreal.

Layla with her anchor light on in the midst of a menacing squall at Great Sale Cay.  Picture taken by Bernard from Blackcat.

Early birthday cake for Tracy made by Karine on Blackcat. 

Big kids coming over for play day on Layla.

Victor exploring Layla, down below.

Victor at play on Layla.

Mia, the swimming beauty, on deck.

Moon rising over Great Sale Cay.

Thunderstorm clouds in Great Sale Cay.

Sundown at Great Sale Cay.

Laughing gull seemed to want some company.  He was a repeat visitor in the late afternoons at Great Sale Cay.

Blackcat departing for their Gulf Stream crossing to the US.

We are on our own now.  After leaving Great Sale Cay, we continued along the Little Bahama Banks to Foxtown on the Little Abacos Island.  We indulged in a guilty pleasure of an indescribable lunch of “cracked conch” (breaded and fried) at “Da Valley” Restaurant.  Tracy spent her birthday there snorkeling with the turtles around Hawksbill Cays. 

Cracked conch lunch at “Da Valley” restaurant, Foxtown.

Tracy snorkeling with the turtles on Hawksbill Cays on her birthday.

Sunset at Foxtown, Abacos.

When a weather window opened up again, we headed towards Green Turtle Cay.  We anchored just north of the island in a cove between Manjack Cay and Crab Cay.  This anchorage is the first that we call a “destination”.  Manjack Cay is delightfully tropical, with thick mangroves lining the middle of the cay, coral ledges on the Abaco Sea side, and silky pink sand lining the Atlantic Ocean side.  The water is unbelievably colorful.  We are anchored in a sea grass bed which is littered with living sea biscuits and just about as many sea biscuit tests (dead shells).  These tests are beautiful, and lay on the bottom like a present to be picked up.  The shallower areas are home to sea urchins.  Tracy is in heaven here!  (You may know she spent several years studying sea urchins for her dissertation research.)  Snorkeling on the ocean side along rocky areas, a variety of sea urchins that can withstand the high energy of waves were found, along with sea fans, corals, and a multitude of colorful fish from sergeant majors, huge parrot fish, butterfly fish, angel fish, wrasses, and so many more.  We are enjoying our time here.  We have arrived.

Solitude.  Beach at Manjack Cay ocean side.

Calm day Atlantic Ocean side of Manjack Cay.

Exploring the north end of Manjack Cay by dinghy, watching a thunderstorm pass.

Standing on ancient reef on the ocean side of Fiddle Cay.

Sea biscuit test (dead) on sea grass bed at Fiddle Cay.

Queen conch (alive) in the sea grass beds at Manjack Cay.

Tiki hut in a bay off of the anchorage at Manjack Cay.

But, as we have discovered many times on this travel, the weather will dictate what we do next and the weather will be changing soon.  We will need to find a better place to anchor for “an indefinite time”, as the weather guru advises.  We expect to move on to Green Turtle Cay next, and then settle in at Marsh Harbor. 

Diving for sea urchins at Manjack Cay.

You can follow us anytime by clicking on the map above.  And, please send us some messages.  It is nice to know someone is out there.